Illampu

20,932 ft/6,3082 m

Tour Overview

The northern extremity of Bolivia's Cordillera Real is often compared to the Cordillera Blanca of Peru, with great vertical relief and steep fluted snow and ice faces. Ancohuma and Illampu are the highest peaks in this area, and offer some of the most difficult and rewarding climbing in the Bolivian Mountains. Illampu is a difficult climb, requiring many belayed pitches and steep and occasionally exposed climbing on the upper ridge. On our approach to our base camps the bulk of our gear will be carried by burros in the lower sections and porters when the going gets steeper. Above base camp we will be carrying our own equipment. As this is a technically challenging climb at high altitude, participants should be in excellent physical condition, have previous climbing experience above 5,500m, be comfortable on ice up to 65 degrees in steepness, and be quite familiar with belay and rappel techniques.

    Highlights

  • The hardest peak in the Cordillera Real.
  • Big, high and complicated.
  • Beautiful views over the Amazon Basin, Cordillera Real and Lake Titikaka.
  • High altitude challenge.

    • Suitable for:

  • Good fitness.
  • Acclimatized and determined people.
  • Experienced climbers.

    Land costs include:

  • Transportation. Bolivian Journeys has a private driver to provide in country transport, thus ensuring our safety and facilitating an independent schedule that does not depend on public transportation.
  • Food. We eat high quality meals using fresh local ingredients.
  • All group climbing gear.
  • Mules.
  • Professional mountain guide.

    • Land costs do not include:

  • Meals except while climbing.
  • Park fee .
  • Gratuities to guides and staff.
  • Insurance.
  • Rescue or medical expenses that may occur during the trip.

  • Day 1

    Drive to Sorata 2,500m (8,200ft).

  • Day 2

    From Sorata we begin our two day trek to Ancohuma Base Camp. Starting in the lush and semitropical warmth of Sorata we gradually climb to Laguna Colani, a beautiful lake perched high above the valley. We use burros to carry our equipment.

  • Day 3

    On our second day of trekking we are joined by porters. The way becomes more difficult and the burros can no longer negotiate the steep terrain. We arrive at Base Camp on Laguna Glaciar, a high mountain lake in a giant cirque. Ancohuma lies to the South with Pico Schulze and Illampu to the north and northeast respectively.

  • Day 4

    Move up to High Camp.

  • Day 5

    Summit climb of Ancohuma and descend to base camp.

  • Day 6

    Walk all the way down to Sorata.

  • Day 7

    Drive back to La Paz.

    Tops

  • 1 lightweight, long sleeve polypropylene shirts
  • 1 medium weight fleece shirt or wool sweater
  • 1 fleece jacket
  • 1 outer shell jacket with hood *

    • Bottoms

  • 1 pair long underwear bottoms
  • 1 pair wind pants *

    • Footwear

  • 1 pairs wool socks
  • 1 pair light weight trekking

    • Boots

  • 1 pair trekking boots
  • 1 pair plastic expedition boots *
  • 1 pair gaiters *

    • Hand wear

  • 1 pair fleece mittens
  • 1 pair overmitts

    • Head gear

  • 1 wool hat
  • 1 pair glacier glasses
  • 1 sunhat

    • Sleeping gear

  • 1 down or synthetic sleeping bag (rated to 15 F) *
  • 1 full length closed cell foam pad

    • Pack

  • 1 daypack for approach hike and possible use on summit day and carry-on bag
  • 1 large (7,500+ cu.in.) duffle bag for gear, include small padlock

    • Climbing gear

  • 1 climbing harness *
  • 1 pair crampons *
  • 1 ice axe (60-70 cm) *
  • 1 locking carabiner *
  • 1 regular biner *
  • 1 equipment sling (1" tubular webbing, approx. 6' long)
  • 1 helmet *

    • Misc

  • 1 first-aid kit
  • 1 headlamp, include extra batteries *
  • 1 one quart water bottle
  • Lip balm (spf 30) and sun screen (spf 40)
  • Pocket knife
  • Adjustable ski poles (highly recommended)*

( * ) Items can be rented from Bolivian Journeys

Contact Us

Tour details:

Altittude: 20,932 ft/6,3082 m

Days: 8 days

Difficulty: Advanced

Location: Cordillera Real